Morn's Going Out Guide

Oaxaca Culinary Tour Success Stories proposes more gastronomic opportunities for visitors to southern Mexico

The awards say it all: "I had a great and inspiring time in Oaxaca. Their knowledge about the culture and region provided us with so many interesting people who are all willing to share their passion, except for the pottery, woodcarving, frothy chocolate, mole, or the best natural dyes "[Elizabeth Baird].

Elizabeth Baird, one of Canada's leading culinary icons of our time, was a participant in the May 2010, Oaxaca, Culinary Tour. Was so prolific cookbook author and columnist Rose Murray, who confirmed a copy of her seminal work, A Taste of Canada, A Culinary Journey with similar praise. "Thank you for sharing your comprehensive knowledge of Oaxaca with us, we know it through your eyes. "

If the foregoing evidence of the success of this latest Tour, then the thought of what was in store for the participants in future similar events organized culinary Oaxaca, titillate anyone interested in Mexican cuisine - Chefs and foodies alike.

While numbers were small (May, when most Americans and Canadians are content to stay close to home are stowed away their winter clothes, and start in the garden), provided the organizers of 8 to 10 participants in each week with daily activities, everything promised the tour, and more: cooking classes with Pilar Cabrera, Susana Trilling, dinner at the famous restaurant Casa Oaxaca in Oaxaca, Los Danzantes, La Olla and La Catrina de Alcalá, and What impressed the most, out into the villages and learn the secrets of the local recipes through hands-on instruction of indigenous natives - in their kitchens and their open Fireplaces and comal.

Culinary tour of Oaxaca, the background

The internationally native Oaxaca celebrated chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo spent the month of September 2009, working her magic in Toronto, both as a guest chef in various restaurants and invited teachers to a prominent cooking school. It had been arranged through the efforts of the Toronto food writer and researcher Mary Luz Mejia Sizzling Communications, and several other ready are to devote their time and effort to ensure a successful month-long event.

Once part of the tour had been decided, was Pilar chief of the Government of Mexico invited Oaxaca cuisine in Toronto Harbourfront Centre Hot & Spicy Food Festival Iron Chef competition are (as it turned out later, They also agreed that the festival's Emerging Chief Judge event) that started around the same time, when the tour.

Met in Toronto chef Pilar the likes of Elizabeth Baird (who judged the Iron Chef event, and decided together with Pilar, the distinguished chef competition), chief Vanessa Yeung (who cooked at the cooking school with Pilar and dined with her in a private dinner parties), and a number of prominent chefs and food writers and critics (including Chef Jason Bangerter of Auberge du Pommier) - most of which no previous exposure had Oaxacan cuisine.

In true fashion Oaxaca Pilar warmly and sincerely invited practically everyone she met to visit Oaxaca. But who would have ever thought that tour operators would begin immediately to requests from guests various venues, chefs and staff of the media, is about traveling to Oaxaca for more in-depth knowledge of long-standing reputation for Oaxaca winning culinary greatness. Finally, the tour was intended only to introduce it to Oaxaca cuisine. It succeeded in whetting the appetite of Canadians for much more.

Those who ultimately participated in the tour included Oaxaca lovers of Mexican cuisine, food writers, chefs and restaurateurs. Some had the whole trip in advance, while others just caught wind of the week's events when they planned their vacation in Oaxaca, and accordingly were allowed to cooking classes, day trips and evening to take food.

Oaxaca Culinary Tour Showcased a variety of food venues and other dimensions of culture

While a theme tour has its raison d'etre, it should not be too restrictive in their events, so that blind participants, what else has to offer a region - and in this case, the effects of other dimensions of culture on a human kitchen. In Oaxaca, there is certainly a wide enough variety of restaurants, food markets, cooking styles and levels of sophistication in order to keep thoroughly delighted gourmets for weeks. But it is the unique and to expose a variety of cultures and the fusion of Old World and New World ingredients and cooking methods, which sought this tour operators and their customers.

For your meal, the participants learned so much about the availability of and regional differences in meat, cheese and produce (and their cultural significance), as it has some basic foodstuffs such as moles, tlayudas, chocolate, tamales and mezcal. It was all achieved through the mediation of a thorough understanding of traditions, about chatting with and learning from people at all stages of life. At one end of the continuum were the most humble of villagers who welcomed the group in her home told to make by pureeing roasted cocoa beans, chocolate, cinnamon and almonds with a primitive grinding stone (metate) and tamales corn leaves by folding over masa, and to make chicken mole amarillo. And at the other end were the European-trained chefs, who explains each dish arriving at the table of their modern kitchens.

Oaxaca Culinary Tour Daily Events

A cook came in Oaxaca a day early so that they meet with the organizers in an informal setting, learning about and indulge in a culinary institution in Oaxaca, on Tlayudas Libres, 21.00 bis 05.00 clock where locals gather for their favorite snacks and grilled directly over charcoal: a folded, oversized tortilla filled with melted cheese Oaxaca string (Quesillo), mashed beans, lettuce, tomatoes, depending on one's feelings, a thin layer of asiento (pork fat), and the choice of chorizo ​​(sausage), Tasajo (beef) or Cecina (pork). For passionate gourmet, a tiny sample marinated pork feet is required. And the rest is for a hot, Corn hominy or drink from Champurrado not negotiable, especially during the early morning hours.

An American is doing his Masters in Nutrition arrived two days early, on time to Oaxaca centro histórico (city center), with its picturesque buildings from the colonial era to explore food and Craft markets.

Another participant was a day later after the rest has left. A local organizers graciously offered her to a rich Oaxaca cultural attractions like the San Agustin Center for the Arts announced driver to see a modern ceramics in a spectacular mountain backdrop of lush exhibition accommodated. And then after last-minute gift, he buys her Atzompa, a village with traditional Oaxacan green glazed pottery continued.

Wednesday

Most participants had arrived by Wednesday, late afternoon, in time for the tour Pilar Cabrera is the center of Oaxaca. This allowed group members about their perspective on the magic of Oaxaca to win and start planning how they might want the free time built into the tour . spend

Dinner was at La Olla Oaxaca institution, Pilar is a separate restaurant. The large candle light on the roof of the restaurant offered a special View of Oaxaca at night.

[For an analysis and critique of the food served at these more upscale establishments, I will be on the food writer and critics on the tour, it will be better note-takers and have greater objectivity and a much more refined palate to leave than this writer.]

Thursday

The morning began with a visit to the Tlapanochestli dedicated research facility, museum and teaching facility Understanding of cochineal (cochinilla), the tiny insect, which has played an integral part in the history of Oaxaca because of its unique quality when it dried and crushed it gives a strong red dye with the addition of lemon juice and baking soda or changes to shades of orange, pink and purple. Of particular interest for the tour participants was their use as a natural dye for food restaurant. While sampling a refreshing gelatin / water / sugar-based desserts dyed with cochineal, had our gourmets the opportunity familiar grocery products with the insect (Campari, Danone yogurt, and Knorr soups Campbell, Make-up Lipstick and see) and stained briefly discussed the delicate question of the appropriateness of the ingredient labeling.

Then off to San Bartolo Coyotepec in comfortable 18-seater van equipped with bucket seats and A / C. Don Valente Nieto, son of the famous potter Doña Rosa, provided an upbeat, informative and entertaining demonstration of the Methods, known by his parents and his family use today, in the design of the famous folk art form barro negro (black pottery). Tour members can now Rightly claim that they saw the same demo that Don Valente made available to Jimmy Carter and Nelson Rockefeller, who in addition to photos and Don Valente Doña Rosa grace the showroom Walls.

The modest home and workshop of Armando Lozano, sculptor and goldsmith, handmade bronze necklaces, earrings and bracelets, provided the first opportunity for the group, how do the most to live in Oaxaca, and eke out a modest existence. The contrast between the quality of work of the family, and his life, was remarkable only overshadowed by the inviting nature of the maestro's daughter-in-law, offered the jewelry for sale.

The last two tours Stops of the day were directly devoted to food and drink. Lunch was on the unique roadside restaurant, Caldo de Piedra, where the chef César prepared Tomato and herb broth to which he then poured into a large half pumpkin for each diner. Then he added to each their own choice either fresh red snapper, a healthy complement of jumbo shrimp or a combination of both. Red hot rocks from open flames were then placed in each pumpkin, and individual meals were cooked thusly, the rocks caused the broth to a boil and poach fish. Only large, hand-made tortillas from the comal and quesadillas filled with plenty of mushrooms and zucchini blossoms were needed to compliment the meal, of course, together with large jugs of freshly squeezed orange juice with soda water (naranjadas) was added.

Oaxaca is known for its mezcal (mezcal), so what could be better to have known an introduction to the Spirit as to Matatlán head, world capital of mezcal, and learn From a manufacturer with a five-generation pedigree of palenqueros (Mezcal producers). Enrique Jimenez, welcomed the tour in his parents' house traditional family Connection, where all the witnesses to the picturesque and primitive production methods, and then drank several varieties of mezcal with pursuers of lime and orange wedges and sal de gusano (the salt, chili gusano worm and ground mixture), together with Quesillo and ricotta-like queso. Then to the family of brand new state-of-the-art facility, where Enrique explains his new method of Mezcal Production. The process dramatically improves quality control while maintaining the richest qualities of mezcal produced in the traditional way - only softer.

Dinner La Catrina de Alcalá provided a nice contrast to earlier events and tastings in the day, with a noble head of Juan Carlos on hand to introduce each dish. Tour participants were so taken with the selection, the opposite end of the evening, the question of whether they move on to dessert, try, or perhaps a venison dish, almost in unison everyone wanted to chose the latter.

Friday

Cooking classes by Pilar Cabrera are always very pleasant and educational institutions, beginning with a visit to Mercado de La for the purchase of fresh produce, by cooking phase Merced, and finally indulge in the fruits of their own work. The class is not complete by the specified elsewhere by me, so that no further be noted.

Each tour participant then had a free afternoon to explore more of the inner city, rest, and then dine at a restaurant recommended.

Saturday

After a relatively relaxed Friday it was back on the road for another day of touring. In the handmade knives and cutlery workshop Apolinar Aguilar observed, the group's masterpiece of his miracles, Heating recycling of metals using a primitive but effective stone and clay oven, then forging with only a mallet striking the glowing metal on an anvil, and finally the all-so-critical stage of tempering.

Knife blades are polished to a brilliant shine without polish or nickel. Buyer had opportunity to have that day inscriptions engraved on the blades they bought. In anticipation The culinary tour was a selection of Apolinar paring knife ready, cut a turkey carving knife, bread knife and a cake ensemble. In addition to the more traditional Bowie hunting knives, swords and machetes, he was also on hand unusual collectibles such as knives with antler handles and letter opener blade with waves of Indonesian Genre.

In the small village of San Antonino made available to participants the ability to choose the best possible hand embroidered blouses and dresses Select - cotton, silk and blends.

Lunch was served in the rustic hamlet of Navarro family, her sisters and her mother for the Weaving of fine cotton fabrics on the back strap loom, and his brother Gerardo known for his watercolors. But the main reason for the setting in Santo Tomás Jalieza was to dine with the family in their Eden-like environment, and required the testimony of their preparation on a small hibachi tasajo-style barbecue, and all steps to Sopa de guias, won a broth from all parts of the zucchini plant, and make a small piece of corn for extra strength. The welcoming nature and all-round hospitality the family was just as impressive as its simple but well-maintained rural home and grounds.

The tour day ended with a visit to the workshop Jacobo Angeles, master carver and painter Alebrijes to a demonstration (the data and information, of which are available online as part of a long dissertation on Woodcarving in Oaxaca). But what do tourists in the region before, and what was Jacobo arranged for the group was to make aguas frescas a lesson Limón and Jamaica Tejat drink (Hibiscus), and the pre-Hispanic, known as the "drink-of-the-gods."

Back after a late afternoon rest Las Bugambilias Bed & Breakfast, the group welcomed the leisurely evening walk to Casa Oaxaca, supposedly the best high-end restaurant in Oaxaca. Unfortunately, in this Night chef / owner Alejandro Ruiz was a little worried about entertaining a group of visiting chefs from various Latin American cities, in this writer's opinion the Experience was somewhat disappointing. It is rumored that happen for the next culinary tour, the organizers may at Casa Oaxaca, unless a Recognition the deficiencies and an assurance of better next time both are in preparation. Each and every players expect a culinary journey through Oaxaca and should receive only the best, of course, barring unforeseen circumstances.

Sunday

The second to last day Culinary tour of Oaxaca offered to present the widest diversity of experiences. The group started on the carpet making village of Teotitlan del Valle, not only for a weaving and dying Demonstration. Rocio Mendoza, one of the daughters-in-law of owner Don Porfirio Santiago and Casa Doña Gloria greeted her with warmth and steadfast consoling smile The tour group in the extended family household for a lesson in the traditional method of producing both hot chocolate and tamales de amarillo, served the ritual court in certain town fiestas.

Both the men and women of the household were present to answer questions and help. Tour group members to a Series felt more welcomed, as one might think possible. Everyone had a hot chance to take on the task of grinding roasted cacao beans into a velvet insert. Matriarch Gloria gave a hands-on lesson about the necessary steps to prepare their special tamales, learn to help each participant, how to place and fold ingredients heated in a corn leaf, and then ever so carefully, the batch of tamales piled into a steaming clay pot (tamalero) of firewood. As soon as all was cooked, and after a traditional "salud" over small glasses of mezcal, each indulged in the fruits of his labor with the members of the Santiago Family: hot chocolate with sweet buns on the side for dipping, and a plate of hot tamales de amarillo tangy. Goodbyes were particularly difficult for the Establishment of relations based on a commonality of purpose - the care and learning about culinary traditions in Teotitlan del Valle.

Two hours Tlacolula in the Sunday market is pretty well required if a group of food enthusiasts is involved, especially when the organizers of special relationships with suppliers have in order to tourists can take pictures and ask questions. What is not in her Pilar Oaxaca market tour leads up to cover her class, was the organizer guarantees explained in detail during the visit Tlacolula. Traditional market of beverages pulque and chilacayota sampled. Members bought decorative gourds, wooden spoons, embroidered Aprons and colorful tablecloths and chiles to take home. The smell of chicken grilling over an open fire and steaming cauldrons of grilled mutton and goat meat teased. The splendor of the Zapotec women in her village dress, their stores buy, sell and trade, impressed everyone. And the ability of group members to have answered all their questions, sample food and beverages, without fear, take their pictures and fill free to wander while they all, unless one of the many tour highlights.

The picturesque open-air restaurant known as El Tigre was a stark contrast to the earlier market scene, but just as welcome in the nature of well-deserved rest. Each member of the group could comedor owner Sara question about salsa preparation, disinfection of fresh produce and cooking techniques and challenges where every item is freshly prepared over a flame on the grill or comal. Once again, a review of El Tigre is available online. The room was so one of the organizers of the objectives of ensuring a culinary experience as diverse as possible pre-selected.

The day ended with a tour a visit to the picturesque mountain scenery as Hierve el Agua known. The facility consists of mineral deposit "water drops" and gushing calcium-and magnesium-rich springs Feeding two pools of water for a safe, refreshing water. Most took the opportunity to cool off - and perhaps benefited from the legendary healing Properties of water - to sit in the shade while others were content to chat about the day's events and take pictures of course.

After hearty breakfast in Las Bugambilias, then hot chocolate with sweet rolls and tamales at Casa Santiago, followed by drink samplings in Tlacolula, and lunch at El Tigre, Botanas (appetizer plates) and had drinks in the evening, at Los Danzantes, without a doubt the Oaxaca restaurant with the best atmosphere by far.

Monday

Not visit in Oaxaca, whether for a culinary journey or otherwise, would be complete without a guided tour through the most important pre-Hispanic ruins and magestic in all of the state of Oaxaca, the 2,000-year-old Zapotec Monte Alban known as a page. After a brief sit-down and opportunity to quench your thirst, were to tour participants Susana Trilling's cooking school commuted chichilo make mole. Once again, the woman Trilling Class elsewhere already taken note of the writer.

Members of the group were welcomed on their visit to Oaxaca by collecting close to an event hall that evening to a celebration of folkloric Oaxaca variety of dance and music traditions such as the Guelaguetza known view. Agreed to a series each, pass on the idea, after such a full itinerary. Instead, they welcomed the opportunity to tour a lot of casual and relaxed setting to end, over drinks and Entertainment on a slope where one of the tour, sit on the terrace and reliving the events of the week with the memories.

Future Culinary Tours in Oaxaca

Culinary vacation in Oaxaca have been done sooner, and will undoubtedly continue into the distant Future. The tour format, however, was unique for its diversity of experiences and the support by the organizers made sure that the expectations of all stakeholders - Experienced Chefs, media professionals, specialized in the culinary arts and gastronomy, and lovers of Mexican cuisine - have been met, or better yet surpassed.

If the current flood of comments about the success of the tour and the level of satisfaction of participants is an accurate gauge, then no doubt it will in future tours, perhaps on a biannual basis, with each successive improvement in the performance of Oaxaca Culinary Tour of the previous one.

Information about future culinary Tours in Oaxaca can be obtained by Mary Luz Mejia Sizzling Communications, or this writer.

About the Author

Alvin Starkman received his Masters in Social Anthropology in 1978. After teaching for a few years he attended Osgoode Hall Law School in Toronto, thereafter embarking upon a career as a litigator until 2004. Alvin now resides in Oaxaca, where he writes, leads small group tours to the villages, markets, ruins and other sites, is a consultant to film production companies, and operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast. ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ) .

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